Porte Noire in King’s Cross: An intimate and exclusive gateway with treasures beyond

“This is the restaurant of the champagne, not the champagne of the restaurant,” states David Farber, oenophile and one half of the founding duo behind Porte Noire King’s Cross. The other half is actor and musician Idris Elba, bringing a certain star power to the venture. 

Porte Noire is located at the northern end of the redeveloped King’s Cross area, right next to the historic Gasholder, with views over Regent’s Canal. The urban feel of the exterior is carried indoors, where the layout appears almost like an afterthought – as though the space has grown outwards from the cellar, which currently holds 800 wines, with a core selection from the Old World while increasingly expanding into the New. It’s somewhere to sit down, have a glass or two, and enjoy some tasty bites alongside. Every element points back to a wine-infused environment, from the smooth waves of the cork wall at the back of the room to winged corkscrews repurposed as coat hooks. Even the dog bowl at the entrance fits the theme, crafted from a wooden wine case and aptly named “Dog Perignon”. 

The idea for a Porte Noire wine label was born from Farber and Elba’s shared passion for wine and prestigious vineyards, in particular after a visit to the Sanger viticultural school in Champagne in 2018. Barely two years later, the first bottles of their Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru vintage champagne saw the light of day. Now, the selection includes a Rosé, a Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs vintage and the Petite Porte non-vintage, with the grapes sourced from Château Sainte Marguerite, a family-owned estate in the Côtes de Provence.

The name Porte Noire (as well as referring to the Roman triumphal arch in Besançon) suggests an intimate and exclusive gateway with treasures beyond. This philosophy is also reflected in the eponymous bistro-style venue, which opened in late 2021, offering food that pairs beautifully with the champagnes, setting the tone for a convivial evening.  

Continuing our conversation with Farber, he underlines how wine is meant for sharing – they even have it on tap here. The food menu carries that idea through. The dishes are designed for a simple, convivial and hearty meal, adjectives that could just as easily describe what’s in our glasses. We start off with the Petite Porte cuvée, which makes for a perfect aperitif: refreshing, with subtle notes of brioche. 

Head chef Gonzalo Luzarraga, whose CV includes various Michelin-starred restaurants and echoes a heritage spanning Chile, Italy and the Basque region, presents a menu firmly centred around single ingredients. A variety of portion sizes allows diners to mix and match according to their cravings. While there are wine bar classics – charcuterie and cheese boards – the advice is to go beyond. The ’Nduja and Mozzarella Arancini are comfort packed into lightly amber-hued balls, whereas the Tuna Tartare is a delicate and delicious cold dish, beautifully complemented by whipped feta and aubergine caviar. This playful approach to ingredients, teasing the line between vegetables and proteins, returns in dishes such as Foie Gras or Not, where toasted sourdough is served with a boozy spread of a mysterious element – one we discovered, but will leave as a riddle for future guests. 

The larger plates are comprised of Milanese Risotto and Confit Cod with Thai Chilli Sauce. The true heroes, however, are the dishes marked “to share”. The Veal Tomahawk Cordon Bleu is an indulgent,​​ lavish showpiece for the eyes (and for the socials) as much as for the tastebuds. The premium cut is filled with rich Swiss cheese and ham, encased in impeccably crisp breading that delivers just the right amount of crunch. The Short Ribs, coated in Korean BBQ sauce, are thick and juicy. The bouquet of the paired wine – an Andrew Murray Tous les Jours Syrah, 2022 – reveals notes of black fruit and white pepper, luscious yet with enough edge to cut through the opulence of the meat-heavy courses. 

Ending on a sweet note, the Toffee Madeleines bring together classic comfort and a contemporary twist, moreish yet reassuring, much like our time at Porte Noire. 

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Jack Törnqvist and Lateef Photography 

To book a table at Porte Noire, Gasholder 10, Unit A 1 Lewis Cubitt Square, London N1C 4BY, call 020 3479 1914 or visit their website here.