Maison Margiela catwalk show report S/S 2016 in Paris
Although referred to by Galliano himself as Sci-Fi Lo-Fi, the Maison Margiela spring/summer 2016 collection was set deep in nostalgia. Not the futuristic silver make-up painted across the models eyes, nor the men modelling dresses and fishnets, were enough to deter the eccentric vintage feeling imprinted into this collection.
Bouffant bee-hives and pea coats started the show in the 1950s. Thick leopard print collars and metallic silver gloves reminded us that this was indeed a Galliano affair, before a flock of so-sheer-they’re-see-through dresses came out, with a little modesty covered by shorter length white jackets. Fishnet stockings peeked out from underneath and slipped into Mary Jane shoes with buckle straps as thick as a Rolex.
The show then briefly slid into a power-dressing phase with green and black suits and jumpsuits. The notable look being the lime green suit, worn by a woman with Bowie-esque eye make-up, an 80s quiff and a blazer open to reveal nothing underneath.
Finally, a flock of modern geishas appeared, again running true to Galliano’s design roots, with white painted faces and garishly styled hair. The kaftan was reinvented with thick cord ties, similar to one seen at the Margiela couture show earlier this year, tied across the bust rather than the traditional waist placement or used as halter-neck straps. Rubber latex in electric blue added modernity, but the classic geisha silhouette remained.
All in all, Galliano has dismissed Margiela’s original ethos and made a collection out of his own fantasy which, surprisingly, turned out to be quite wearable.
Photos: Getty Images