Manish Arora catwalk show report S/S 2016 in Paris

In the Faust nightclub on the Alexandre III bridge, just by the River Seine, Manish Arora set the scene for his Cleopatra meets disco Romany princess. Showing during Paris Fashion Week, 70s flared silhouettes and gypsy influences played across the colourful collection for spring/summer 2016, which was inspired by Studio 54 icons Bianca Jagger and Jerry Hall. Heavily patterned textiles were teamed with complex embroidery containing natural forms such as butterflies and stars alongside iconic 1970s Rubik’s cubes.

Fashion designer-turned-blogger Diane Pernet watched on as Arora created his own “disco gypsy land”, seamlessly teaming heavy glitter on and around eyes with enormous teardrop dream catcher earrings, Cleopatra-esque beaded wigs, cropped Bohemian tube tops, and full peasant-style skirts complete with fully netted petticoats.

Arabia fused with India producing rainbow colours ranging from fuchsia, tropical orange, plentiful golds, mauves, bottle green and Matador reds alongside metallic glitter streamers hanging from dresses and hems of cropped tops. Two-tone trousers were seen alongside fringed tank tops, huge platforms and folk scarves were worn around heads and waists.

Mumbai-born Manish Arora studied at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi and started his namesake label in 1997. He initially showed during India Fashion Week before gravitating to London and now Paris, earning a place as a member of the French Federation of Prêt-a-Porter. Arora is renowned for his bold colour palette and exquisite embroideries and textiles produced in India, some of which will be shown by the designer as part of the forthcoming Fabric of India exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

It is clear to see why this vivacious, vibrant and exciting designer is coveted by celebrity fans including Katy Perry and Rihanna, yet it is the astounding detail, artistry and painstaking amount of craftsmanship which is seen in his embroideries that sets Manish Arora apart. His refreshing take and elevation of traditional Indian textile techniques to haute couture status are as significant and magnificent as ever – long may he reign as the Raja of embroidery.

Victoria Geaney
Photos: Erol Birsen