Fashion weeks Paris Fashion Week AW16

Christophe Guillarmé autumn/winter 2016 collection catwalk show | PFW

Christophe Guillarmé autumn/winter 2016 collection catwalk show | PFW

Bling was definitely the mot du jour. Christophe Guillarmé’s autumn/winter 2016 collection was an explosion of sequins, diamanté and colour. The show’s theme was Psyché and the designer went out of his way to play with conscious and unconscious appearance, showing a variety of different looks in a rainbow spectrum of colours, a classic artistic flourish from him. It was fun, daring and eye-catching, but unfortunately with a touch too much glitter.

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Guillarmé was aiming for “edgy retro glamour” and featured plenty of beautiful lace appliqué and broderie anglaise gowns, in colours ranging from pale powder blue to a vampish ruby red. There were a variety of textures, with a few laser-cut neoprene pieces and plenty of black eye-lash lace contrasted with white or pink colour blocking.

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Each dress celebrated femininity and sex appeal, some with playfully structured skater or flare skirts, and some by fitting to the models’ curves. A standout piece was a sheer, inky blue satin silk gown, with lace appliqué detailing on the bodice, long sleeves and a floor-length hemline. Many of Guillarmé’s looks featured high necks and managed to still embody the femme fatale without being overly revealing.

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Most of the dresses were bold and embellished with crystals, with either glittering metallic or red or black leather clutches, alongside statement drop-down rhinestones earrings. Some looks also featured heavy circular pendants with sea-creature motifs, surprisingly reminiscent of The Little Mermaid. The hair, however, softened all of these accessories. All of the styles featured braids, interlocking with a soft geometric intricacy. Many were updos or half-up half-down and this delicate evening look worked well with their classic red

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Guillarmé’s new collection is playful and sexy statement. There’s so much to see that it’s certainly not boring.

Catherine Phipps

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