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Bar Termini Centrale in Marylebone

Bar Termini Centrale in Marylebone
Bar Termini Centrale in Marylebone | Bar review
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Shot by Filippo L'Astorina

Soho’s Bar Termini has been serving up flawless negronis in its tiny, impeccably elegant Old Compton Street venue since 2014, with only one downside: getting a table is not always the easiest proposition. Fortunately, you can now find its sister bar, Termini Centrale, just up Duke Street near Selfridges – perfect if you want to escape the soulless drag of Oxford Street for a little aperitivo.

The style and menu are almost exactly identical to the original location, down to the pale green banquettes, dark wood and marble bar, and retro travel prints hanging on the walls. The space is much larger however, so you’ll find it considerably easier to pop in on a whim and find somewhere to sit. Something of the charm and intimacy of the original has been lost with the increase in size, but you’ve still got the friendly staff, swinging soundtrack and strong cocktails – so we’re not complaining.

The range of house negronis has happily made it over from Soho, including the Superiore with the subtlest hint of pink peppercorn, and the Rosato, flavoured with rose petals. Plus there’s a new kid on the block, a Bergamot-tinged version for added Mediterranean flavour. All of these come in the delicate glassware Termini does so well, poured from the ice-cold bottle they’ve been mixed in. In addition to them, there’s a short selection of signature cocktails including, of course, a couple of lovely spritzes.

If you’re after something stronger, the Marsala Martini adds a hit of the Sicilian fortified wine along with almond bitters to its gin and vermouth, creating a slightly richer, sweeter take on the classic formula. Meanwhile the Terroir is one of bar maestro Tony Conigliaro’s perfectly engineered works of art: lichen, clay and flint distilled with a neutral spirit and sweetened with syrup, a combination which lands you halfway between the minerality of a white wine and the kick of a Martini.

The cocktails might be the main draw, but there’s also a slightly extended snack menu, with all the glorious charcuterie (the coppa is sensational) and cheese of the original, plus panzerotti (like miniature deep-fried calzoni), salads and even eggs for breakfast if you get there early enough. Add in the expertly made coffee, and Termini Centrale has made itself into a place you can hang out at any time of day.

★★★★★

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Virginia Clark
Photos: Filippo L’Astorina

To book a table at Bar Termini Centrale, 31 Duke Street London W1U 1LG, call 07841017138 or enquire here.

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