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The Barley Mow in Mayfair: “The sort of pub that everyone wishes was their local”

The Barley Mow in Mayfair: “The sort of pub that everyone wishes was their local” | Restaurant review
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Shot by Cristiana Ferrauti
Alex Julie Woods Shot by Cristiana Ferrauti

Set in a Grade II-listed building on Duke Street, the Barley Mow was recently restored into an elegant and inviting pub and restaurant. After closing during the pandemic, it was taken over by Cubitt House and is now headed up by Ben Tish as chef director. From the moment you walk in, you’re hit with a homey and local ambience that most pubs spend years trying to create – not an easy thing to do in central London.

The dining room is tucked upstairs, away from the bustling bar below. Decked out in wood paneling, chandeliers and plush velvet seating, it’s full of charm and character, making diners feel instantly at home. The menu boasts a handful of carefully selected dishes accommodating vegetarians, pescatarians and meat eaters. The carvery section also offers a daily roasted meat served with a choice of sides and seasonal greens.

To start, we had a couple of Maldon Rock Oysters served with a shallot mignonette, which went down very well – a clean and fresh flavour with just a hint of salt. We also had the Scottish Langoustines served with fresh mayonnaise and lemon. These little mouthfuls work well as a sharing snack and are perfect for whetting the appetite.

For mains, we had the Dover Sole Meunière with creamed spinach and mashed potatoes. It was served off the bone and absolutely flawless. We also had the Rump of Beef from the carvery section, which was generously served with gratin dauphinoise and seasonal greens. A special mention is due to the impressive dauphinoise potatoes that perfectly rounded off this dish. In fact, all the sides were excellent and vital in bringing the best out of the mains.

We had to order the Sticky Toffee Pudding for dessert, with salted caramel sauce and Ivy House clotted cream. It didn’t disappoint and was among the best that I’ve had. We also had the Cambridge Burnt Cream – a British version of crème brûlée with an extra crunchy topping that gave way to a silky, sweet custard – another classic dessert that’s hard to beat.

That night, we left the Barley Mow extremely well fed and already planning on when we would next swing by. This is the sort of pub that everyone wishes was their local. With a lively boozer downstairs and a superb restaurant to boot, you’d be a fool to miss out.

Alex Julie Woods
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at The Barley Mow, The Barley Mow 82 Duke Street Mayfair London W1K 6JG, call 020 4553 1414 or visit their website here.

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