Faber at Holborn Dining Room: A standout showcase of British seafood
Faber, the brainchild of Anthony Pender and Matt Ward, launched in the thick of the pandemic – a time when most of the hospitality industry was in survival mode. Instead of waiting it out, they took their seafood-focused menu door to door by bicycle, with each dish prepared in a pub kitchen. London couldn’t get enough. Despite its modest and unconventional beginnings, the project quickly gained momentum and, within a few years, a permanent venue opened in the heart of Hammersmith. Building on that success, Faber’s head chef Ollie Bass is now bringing his British Shores eight-course tasting menu to Holborn Dining Room for a three-month residency – offering central London a chance to experience just how refined and expressive modern British seafood can be.
The meal began with a delicate Welsh Laverbread Biscuit, a crisp seaweed base topped with crème fraîche. Light and quietly elegant, it set the tone for what was to come. Members of staff then came to present the first of many drink pairings: the Gusbourne 2019 white sparkling was soft and an excellent match for any dish, especially the second course – a carefully curated, beautifully presented selection of oysters. One was simple yet fresh, one came with chive and pickle, and then there was the crème fraîche-dressed, torched Sussex do’ya, which was deemed the star of the show.
Chalk Stream Trout Tartare with Soy, Keta Caviar and Nori quickly followed and was paired with Chapel Down’s Kit’s Coty 2022 chardonnay, which added a greatly appreciated, luxuriously spiced note to the smooth, buttery trout. Devon Diver Scallop Crudo with Smoked Dashi and Yoghurt complimented the trout wonderfully, and when the chef explained that one man deep-dived for each and every scallop to ensure perfection, the table could taste it. A flavourful non-alcoholic, sparkling tea-based Saicho Darjeeling matched the sweet aftertaste of the dish exceptionally well.
The Sourdough Glazed Lobster with radish, rosemary and buttermilk slaw joined the torched do’ya oyster as a crowd favourite, with each guest trying to ration bites to the best of their abilities. The accompanying Gusbourne Rosé 2020 suggested Faber and Holborn Dining Room are incapable of choosing a beverage pairing that is anything less than magnificent. Alongside the lobster, the Dorset Devilled Crab with Aged Cheddar Biscuit was one of the more substantial courses, with the sharpness of the cheese cutting through the crab’s richness and subtly piquant flavour. The John Dory with Smoked Eel and Broad Bean followed, rounding off the savoury dishes on a strong note.
To close, a bright West Country Belle cocktail – a twist on a Pink Lady, made with gin and grenadine – was served alongside brown butter madeleines with dark chocolate. It was a satisfying finish that cleansed the palate and left diners quietly reflecting on the highlights of the evening.
While fine dining often comes with a sense of formality, which the venue graciously delivered, both the Faber team and Holborn Dining Room staff made sure guests felt completely at ease. Friendly banter accompanied each serving and any question was answered with gusto and a smile. Both the hosts and their visiting stars were extremely knowledgeable about one another’s crafts, whether explaining the reason why each British wine was chosen or why a course stood out on its own. Although they are collaborating for only three months, it feels as though the two have admired one another for years.
There’s no doubt Faber will continue to showcase the depth and quality of British seafood – a reminder that the UK’s coastal produce can easily hold its own on the world stage. And in Holborn Dining Room, they’ve found an ideal partner for the occasion.
Taryn Crowley
The Seafood Counter by Faber is at Holborn Dining Room, 252 High Holborn Rosewood London WC1V 7EN, until 14th September 2025. For further information or to book a table call 020 3747 8633 or visit the restaurant’s website here.
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