Restaurant 8 by Andrew Sheridan in Liverpool: “An immersive chef-counter experience”
Liverpool is a city of many layers: the iconic music heritage, the crowded shopping centres, the windy harbour and the cultural festivals. Well connected with splendid natural areas, whether pristine sandy beaches or lakeside mountain paths, it has all the charm and melancholy of a historically influential port city, including the clashing of accents and dialects. Despite the impressive destinations in the surrounding regions, the city itself holds just a few fine-dining spots worth a detour. Among them, we can certainly count Restaurant 8, the immersive chef-counter experience by Andrew Sheridan (nicknamed “maverick”), which first opened in Birmingham in 2020 and relocated to Liverpool in spring last year.
Behind black-clad windows – with only the shape of the 8 logo allowing any light in – the venue has a discreet appearance, almost to the point you could miss the entrance if you were not looking for it, creating a sort of divider between the chaos of Liverpool and the refined experience indoors. A little way in and guests are introduced to the lounge and the dark industrial style that is predominant throughout the space. Modernist metallic artworks bring splashes of colour that alternate with vein-like golden designs running across the walls and furniture. Rock and pop music plays in the background, with the volume set just right to allow for conversation. The drinks list is compact: one page for the wines, mostly French and Italian labels, and one page for all other beverages. Given the cool bar-like atmosphere, one could perhaps expect a more extensive cocktail selection.
The drinks menu seems designed to gently accompany the food without stealing its thunder, and we find this balancing approach to run throughout the meal. From the cocktails section, we choose to begin our lunch with an Old Fashion and Saturn, a lip-smacking slightly zesty gin and tonic. Without a sound, the chef emerges from the counter to the left of our table and presents us with preliminary snacks: a tuna tostada dressed with matcha sauce plays on crunchy contrasts, while a smooth mushroom tartlet renders gratifying hints of undergrowth. It quickly becomes clear that the team is deeply committed to sourcing local produce and delivering sophisticated, locally-inspired cuisine.
After a short while we are led downstairs, where two counters, each with eight stools arranged communal-style, await. The chefs cook the dishes in front of us, and it’s not just the plating: burners, pots and pans are within arm’s reach, with moderate sounds of sizzling and squishing audible as we chat with the kitchen staff and our companions. The tasting menu kicks off with a refreshing Chawanmushi with Isle of Wight tomatoes, intense both in their dried and fresh treatment, and trout roe. A hand-dived extra-large Orkney scallop follows, simply seared on just one side in a sea of butter and then laid in a pond of herby pesto and shellfish curry-infused sauce. Each meaty bite is addictive. The bread course is served with goat’s milk whipped cream from the Lake District; it spreads more evenly than butter and tastes like a silky cream. Again hailing from Scotland is the protagonist of the next course, the Sea Trout Confit deliciously marries an exquisite sauce of courgette, comprising drops of apple and whey derived from the preparation of the whipped cream. This is a simple yet scrumptious dish that wonderfully exemplifies Restaurant 8’s concept. The pairing with a malolactically fermented Domaine de la Bégude Bandol Rosé 2022 enhances the nuances, bringing forth strawberry and cranberry notes.
The pinot noir from Bourgogne that follows has a fuller body and a stronger presence of spices that blend perfectly with the next course, a juicy Iberico Presa. Following it is a palate cleanser that is far from the usual: Pineapple is a beautiful flower of crackling pineapple with a jelly heart of passionfruit and creamy coconut. We are then presented with Milk, an incredible assembly of the different variations of the white liquid: crisp, foamy, solid, cold and room-temperature. Like a wafting cloud on a sunny day, this tantalising dessert is a delight.
As a standard cheese board wouldn’t fit with the style of the menu, the team has prepared their own version, finishing the journey in gooey style. The Stilton, a sticky toffee and bread based dessert with walnut, is topped by a scoop of creamy cheese and butterscotch sauce. Back upstairs in the lounge, we enjoy a final sweet treat before heading out.
This summer, Sheridan has been involved in the opening of other outlets, the latest being Dishes in Prestatyn, Wales. Some of these new openings are casual spots, with a few focusing on sharing plates. Restaurant 8, though, marks the chef’s homecoming. He combines elevated dining and convivial interaction with the kitchen, and connects with the city through the industrial-chic décor and the use of regional ingredients.
Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti
To book a table at 8 by Andrew Sheridan, 16 Cook Street Liverpool L2 9RF, call 0151 559 0397 or visit the restaurant’s website here.
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