Calvin Luo autumn/winter 2017 collection catwalk show for NYFW
For young designer Calvin Luo, gender is irrelevant. In this show, Luo was able to create a collection solely based on construction and detailing. This collection was principally surrounding the idea of asexuality and the universability of fashion. He was able to create pieces with both feminine and masculine qualities, and it rendered the garment without a specific gender identification. These pieces did not conform to any societal norm; therefore, who wears them was exclusively up to the individual – they could wear whatever they identified with.
The word “asexual” was on full display throughout the collection with special emphasis on male models wearing skirts and dresses. This transfer of femininity on to the presentation of a male model confused the orthodox idea of gender. A brick-coloured long sweatshirt dress paired with safari green and burgundy layered sweatshirt is the epitome of the idea of asexuality. The gender identity is blurry, and that renders the human a canvas in which the garment can be presented in its truest form.
The neutral palette with accents of red and blue speak to the breadth of this collection. The pops of colour are not associated with one specific gender, and are utilised throughout the collection. They add dimension to the assembly of the looks and in doing so elevate the dramatic role that clothing can obtain.
Structure was a main detail and the execution of Luo’s ability to do so marks him a master constructionist. Regardless of material, the designer was able to manipulate the varieties with great ease. Luo exhibits great aptitude in creating seamless connections between the shifting patterns and fabrics.
The idea of gender neutrality and self identification transcends into the world beyond fashion. With clothing as a medium in which to perpetuate this idea, Luo steps to the forefront as a modern barrier breaker of society as well as a superb designer.
Rose Carlisle
Photos: Dana Laquidara
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