Central Saint Martins graduate Jamie Wei Huang is known for her belief in seeking self-expression through contemporary design. This season, she was doing just that, using the Buddhist concept of Nibanna (the afterlife), and the beliefs of different cultures concerning the mystery of death, as her focus.
True to her roots of using materials and textures to communicate an idea, this season was all about metal trimming, leather and luxurious fabrications. The silhouettes were impossibly elongated; the models’ heights emphasised by tall platform slip-ons and sandals. This effect was only accentuated further by the dropped waists and long hemlines of slim-fitting dresses. Lighter, woven white fabrics were used to illustrate an idea of heaven, appearing in the form of floating, wide-legged culottes and striking jumpsuits.
The largely monochrome palette was punctuated by patches of scarlet and cobalt blue, intended to symbolise the seven circles of hell. A bold devil motif recurred on the front of slightly tougher biker jackets and statement bralets. Covetable rucksacks and tote bags created from patches of ponyskin and leather completed the elegant look. Hair was pulled back in thick, messy plaits, with make-up kept to a minimum of rouged cheeks and lightly stained lips.
According to the show notes, the idea behind the heavy use of symbolism was that it would mean something different to each viewer, depending on their experiences and cultural background. Perhaps it is this idea of personal interpretation, the fact that each and every individual can take something different away from these clothes, that made this stunning collection feel so special.
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