Wringer and Mangle in London Fields

The Laundry (E8) has recently transformed into Wringer and Mangle (because the laundry theme was apparently so successful first time round…) which, like its predecessor, serves hearty and flavoursome food alongside elegantly crafted drinks in a long, cavernous hall that used to be a laundry building. Dangling light bulbs, exposed copper pipes and an original concrete ceiling are all features that pay homage to the building’s heritage, alongside plump sacks of (hopefully artificial) laundry that double-up as large cushions for reclining, and a real mangle, given pride of place at the end of the hall.

A long, impressive bar dominates the space. Here Wringer and Mangle serve their own variations on the classic Tom Collins cocktail, using infused spirits and fruity homemade syrups. Options range from vodka and fresh blackberries with a lime and honey soda to Chairman’s rum with lemon and soda, and – the clear winner – cucumber-infused Bombay Sapphire with cucumber and cardamom foam. The latter is a silky, velvety, fragrant delight. With London Fields Brewery as a neighbor, expect a good variety of beers present as well.

The food is a hearty, British affair, using seasonal ingredients and classic flavour combinations. The pig’s head terrine with mustard vinaigrette is warm, meaty and sweet, perfectly balanced with a tangy vinaigrette, and the autumnal vegetable stew is creamy, well-spiced and a deep, comforting, squash-y kiss. The depth of the beetroot, goat’s cheese and fig tart, however, is overrun by the sharp, almost cheap taste of dried figs and is just another example of such a dish being overplayed and ruined. However, Wringer and Mangle mostly display a respect and delight for seasonal produce and traditional British flavours.

Music appropriately accompanies the flirty, traditional vogue of the menus, playing classic jazz, rock and blues tunes that maintain the energy and glamour. Vibrant local artwork covers the walls and provides another facet of interest for the Hackney community. The art is selected from East London’s flourishing creative scene and will change every six weeks or so.

Wringer and Mangle is East London’s perfect establishment – it’s stylish and elegant, yet still retains a hint of grubbiness that suggests an authentic air and an underlying wild nature lurking behind the glimmer. There’s even a very generous seated, heated and covered outdoor space to accommodate smokers.

★★★★★

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Alexandra Finch

To book a table at Wringer and Mangle, 4-8 Warburton Road, E8 3FN, visit here.