Macellaio RC Soho: Italian butchery and Ligurian cuisine in focus

Theatreland is home to some majestic venues, but since 2021, Shaftesbury Avenue has featured another kind of stage: a butcher’s theatre. Here, Roberto Costa has opened the latest branch of his Macellaio Italian Steakhouse group. The first opened its doors in Notting Hill in 2012 and, following its success, three more venues were established across London and Brighton. The pandemic prompted a reshuffle of the portfolio, resulting in some closures and the birth of Macellaio Soho. This new addition, with its cinema-style facade, sits right next to the Sondheim Theatre and a dramatic billboard for Les Misérables.

Guests are greeted with a “Choose Your Cut” meat display just a few steps inside, and from the butcher’s board to the table, the range is extensive and varied. Originally, nearly all the meat was sourced from Italy, however, recent import challenges have transformed a drawback into an opportunity, with the team now turning to British and Irish producers to maintain a diverse and flavoursome spread. The menu, still dominated by Italian ingredients and complemented with detailed information, serves as both an educational resource and a rediscovery for those already in the know, illuminating the finest cuts and methods for handling meat: Fiorentina hails from Tuscany and the Fassona from North Genoa, while the Tomahawk comes from Ireland; the Costata is particularly exquisite due to the ring of fat encircling the steak, whereas the beef loin and fillet, although less juicy, are favoured for their firm consistency – and so on and so forth. More about frollatura and other meat cutting and preservation techniques is explored in dedicated masterclasses, held in the restaurant’s laboratory on the last Wednesday of every month.

We peruse the wine list that spans the Italian boot, emphasising the hyper-regionality of both drinks and dishes. As we await our decadent Lardo Bruschetta – topped with hazelnuts and a drizzle of honey – the “bread and butter” course lands in the form of a lit beef dripping candle. To truly appreciate the premium ingredients, we start with a Battuta Albese, a delectable serving of lean Fassona beef presented simply in its raw state. For its marinated version, there’s the Steak Tartare, the same base dish but with French-style seasoning. Before sharpening our knives for the main course, we delve into the menu’s pasta section. It keeps to a concise list (accompanied by a similarly brief selection of focaccias) and entices with a Gnocchi al Pesto, however we had to try the Ravioli al Tocco. The generous portion does justice to the rich sauce, with a robust beef base complemented by a thin tomato jus, the thickly textured pasta encasing a packed filling.

Moving to the Grill section, the feast includes everything from dry-aged options (burgers and Orecchia d’Elefante breaded) to truly enormous steaks weighing up to 100kg – perfect for the whole table. Alternatively, diners can pick and choose from the counter, which features the likes of bone marrow and several cuts including fillets, striploins and costata. We opt for the house favourite: the Costata – a ribeye on the bone. The succulent steak arrives sizzling on a cast iron skillet, bursting with its own juices, the glistening fat seeping out. From well-bred cattle, it sings with flavour. To complete the picture, there are roast carrots and potatoes, not greasy and retaining a starchy, tender core.

As at any good Italian restaurant, it feels almost obligatory to try the Tiramisù, and we make no exception. The mascarpone cream hits the right density, interposing savoiardi biscuits that would have benefited from a slightly longer dip in coffee. That said, the plentiful dusting of cocoa powder makes up for it. The Apple Tart is beautifully presented as a single serving, shaped like a rose, with soft sliced apple petals atop a gooey caramel swirl and flaky base.

Sticking to the principles of the format – premium cuts, certified farmers, and delicious wine – Macellaio RC proposes an appetising Italian twist on the concept of a steakhouse. With its latest prime location, it really delivers on its promise as the butchers take centre stage in Theatreland.

Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at Macellaio RC Soho, 39-45 Shaftesbury Avenue, London W1D 6LA, call 020 3848 1030 or visit the restaurant’s website here.