Rake at the Compton Arms earns Michelin Guide nod for innovative British pub fare

Rake, the kitchen residency operating out of the Compton Arms pub in Highbury has been listed in the New section of the Michelin Guide, recognising the venture’s approach to modern British cuisine since it began its residency at the historic Islington pub in January 2025. Being featured in the Guide places it among a select group of newly recognised establishments in one of the restaurant industry’s most closely watched publications.

The recognition is particularly notable given that Rake operates as a residency rather than a permanent restaurant – a format that has historically received less attention from national food guides and media outlets. The team is led by chefs Jay Claus and Syrus Pickhaver, who between them bring roughly 20 years of industry experience. Claus previously worked at Quo Vadis, Smoking Goat and Brat before heading up the kitchen at Acme Fire Cult, where he was also named one of Time Out’s Best Young Chefs last October. Pickhaver trained under Ben Tunnicliffe at the Tolcarne Inn in Cornwall before working across Robin Gill’s restaurant group, including Zebra Riding Club and Birch, and later serving as senior sous chef at Acme Fire Cult.

Together, the pair have developed a produce-driven menu built around seasonality, day boat fish and whole-animal butchery. Responsibly sourced Cornish seafood features prominently alongside what the kitchen describes as refined interpretations of classic British dishes. The current menu includes fresh oysters, beer-battered cockles and clams, chophouse cuts such as roast chicken and braised lamb shanks, and a dish that has attracted considerable attention online: crumpets topped with battered ray wing and drizzled with golden syrup.

The Compton Arms has a well-established history of hosting emerging culinary talent. The pub, which is over 200 years old and is said to have inspired George Orwell’s essay The Moon Under the Water, has previously housed residencies including Four Legs – whose founders went on to open The Plimsoll and Tollingtons – as well as Tiella and Schmaltz, the latter by chef Chris D’Sylva who subsequently opened Dorian. The Islington establishment is run by landlords Nick Stephens and Hanna Sinclair Stephens.

Rake’s Michelin listing follows a five-star review from Time Out, which described the Compton Arms as “north London’s finest foodie pub”. The residency, which has been in place for approximately a year, is confirmed to continue for at least a further six months.

Food Desk

To book a table at The Compton Arms, 4 Compton Avenue, London N1 2XD, visit the pub’s website here.

For further information about Rake, visit their Instagram here.