Burger and Lobster at the Old Bailey launch

With eight other locations already spread across London, popular upmarket chain Burger and Lobster’s latest incarnation is coming to the after-work dinner and drinks crowd of the St Paul’s area.

The Burger and Lobster ambience is pretty consistent across the locations, with a low-key industrial approach favoured, and the Old Bailey venue is no exception. Whilst the space is seemingly made to accommodate upscale evening events, with roomy hang-out areas around the bar, a wide stage and generally cavernous room design, it’s easy to see how well the layout will lend itself to a general dining experience. With an unfussy, stripped-back design and languidly cool, authentic decor – all rustic wood, with lobster cages housing bare light bulbs and earthy sales hanging from the exposed, warehouse ceiling – the restaurant’s vibe hovers in a pleasant zone just short of hipster-like pretension.

The Burger and Lobster team don’t mess about when it comes to the food; what you see is what you get, with the menu basically limited to the surf-and-turf duo. They’re not likely to hear many complaints though, since what they do they really do well. The Burger is right up there amongst the most succulent and flavourful, and the remarkably buttery Lobster Roll brioche proved a hit with this lobster virgin, with enthusiastic praise coming from more experienced quarters, too.

On the drinks side of things it’s pretty cocktail heavy, with an impressive 17-variation set to be on offer when the restaurant opens; the list includes some arty takes on classics such as the Mint Collins, as well as their own lavish concoctions, served up with some quirky details – twigs of lavender attached to the glasses with miniature clothes pegs, or the foregoing of the glass in favour of austere Havana Club tin cans, for instance. The cocktail menu is complemented by a good selection of spirits, wines, champagne and some niche bottled beers, which also went down well.

The restaurant’s staff are a cut above the norm, bursting with energy and truly personable; they genuinely seem to be having a blast, their infectious energy incapable of not rubbing off on the customers. A particularly nice touch added at the launch was the shaving services offered from traditional barber Jack the Clipper in honour of Movember, scoring Burger and Lobster some cheeky brownie points.

Prices aren’t the cheapest, but also far from outrageous, with a burger or lobster main with fries and salad setting diners back £20: the burger is massively overpriced and the lobster underpriced, making for a fair trade off. Drinks are a bit pricier, with cocktails coming in just shy of the £10 mark, though the ciders and beers are again priced pretty acceptably.

The Old Bailey venue is sure to attract as enthusiastic an audience as Burger and Lobster’s others, so the likelihood is visitors are going to have to be prepared for a wait (the no-booking policy means it’s a bit of a free for all). It is however, without a doubt, worth it. If you’re after a chilled-out, no-frills vibe and delicious food, this is the place.

★★★★★

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Harriet Clugston
Photos: Filippo L’Astorina

For further information about Burger and Lobster Old Bailey, 30 Old Bailey Street Ludgate EC4M 7HS, call 020 3637 4034 or enquire here.