Culture Food & Travel Restaurant & bar reviews

Nightjar in Soho: “A retro, clandestine style”

Nightjar in Soho: “A retro, clandestine style” | Bar review
Avatar photo
Avatar
Shot by Virginie Viche
Cristiana Ferrauti Shot by Virginie Viche

Behind, or rather below, an unassuming door in Carnaby’s Kingly Court, there’s a special speakeasy. Nightjar, which already made its name in Old Street, has recently opened a sister bar in the buzzing heart of Soho. The guarded entrance doesn’t reveal too much, keeping the surprise for patrons descending the staircase that leads to an alcove of live music and exquisite drinks.

Following a prohibition-era theme, both for the atmosphere and for the cocktail menu, Nightjar’s offering is intriguing. A small stage, with a backdrop of glittering golden curtains, is set opposite to the counter where the bartenders are continuously in action. There is live piano music every night and, from 9pm, there are also the main acts (for which guests are requested to pay a cover charge that goes directly to the artists performing), comprising jazz, swing, blues and funk.

The drinks list is divided into four main sections, encompassing historic periods of alcohol consumption and featuring both classics and interpretations from the past centuries. The actual menu is an elegant booklet with a few illustrated pages that hint that the presentation of the cocktails will be visually appealing.

The pre-Prohibition era tipples play with floral and fruity notes. Premier, delicately bubbly with Moët & Chandon Brut champagne, refreshingly mixes Pennyroyal mint tincture, Quaglia Camomilla liqueur, lemongrass and cardamom cordial. The section dedicated to Prohibition is captioned as “not for the faint of heart”: from the Toronto (with Woodford Reserve bourbon and Fernet Branca, curiously flavoured with orange blossom smoked candyfloss), to The Filmograph or The Honeymoon, they are indeed strong and tantalising combinations. We opt for the Soul Kiss: a ring-shaped ceramic bottle arrives, decorated with beautiful flowers in red shades, and carrying a thick, punchy, slightly bitter elixir of Bulleit bourbon, Flor de Caña 7 rum, vermouth and a pleasant touch of coffee and roasted pecan maple syrup. It’s really one to remember.

More spiced and juicy are the drinks in the Post-War category. Our Tequila-based pick, Lupita, is a velvety and zesty concoction, featuring prickly pear sorbet and cordial. The Nightjar signature chapter is dedicated to original recipes from the team, and it’s clear from reading the options that there is a lot of fun and creativity going on in the laboratory. The cup containing Name of the Samurai is positioned over a flame that is extinguished by the weight of the glass. The trick enables a thin layer of smoke all around, without excessively impressing the liquid within, which smoothly combines Suntory Toki whisky, Akashi Tai sake, plum and Galangal liqueur.

For a sharing experience, four classics are here reinterpreted and bottled for the table, such as the Cantarito (a margarita with character, with Amores Verde Momento mezcal and passionberry tincture). A short selection of small plates is available to accompany the evening with a few nibbles.

The dusky room sets the tone for the retro, clandestine style. Where Instagrammers might be disappointed in such low light, unable to do justice to the the ornamental display – often completed with edible little extras – it is actually the perfect way to remind visitors how to switch off and enjoy the night as it used to be, simply in the company of good music and good cocktails.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Virginie Viche

To book a table at Nightjar, Kingly Court 49-51 Carnaby Street London W1F 9PY, call or visit their website here.

More in Food & Drinks

SIPS Barcelona brings avant-garde Old Fashioned tour to Hoxton hotels in four European cities this November

Food & Travel Desk

Kudu opens cocktail bar Smokey Kudu in Marylebone for South African-inspired drinks and small plates

Food & Travel Desk

De Nadas to open fifth Argentinian empanada shop near Kew Gardens station this November

Food & Travel Desk

Battersea Power Station’s Chimney Lift reopens with interactive history experience

Food & Travel Desk

Bonheur by Matt Abé opens with new fine dining vision in former Le Gavroche Mayfair site

Food & Travel Desk

Novikov launches exclusive wine club in Mayfair with rare vintages and members-only events

Food & Travel Desk

Frederick Forster unveils new à la carte menu at 190 Queen’s Gate at The Gore

Food & Travel Desk

Liu Xiaomian launches winter noodle pop-up at The Stranded pub in Aldwych

Food & Travel Desk

Layla bakery launches limited-edition pumpkin and maple tart for Thanksgiving weekend in West London

Food & Travel Desk