Buonissima 2022: Turin’s food and art festival is a blueprint for success
After the success of its maiden edition, Buonissima is back with a programme crafted around the relationship between Turin’s and Piedmont’s culinary culture, and the wider realms of visual and musical arts.
The Italian city boasts an enviable reputation when it comes to food, much due to its sublime trattorias – or piolas as they’re known locally – as well as its historic bars, and its renowned coffee, vermouth and chocolate.
As the first capital of Italy, Turin still radiates a regal air, albeit in a muted, mysterious and subtle manner. This nuanced character saw a gradual decline in the city’s image from a beacon of the 60s economic boom. Yet, in just 15 years, Turin has hosted the Winter Olympics, staged the Eurovision and secured a five-year contract with the prestigious year-end ATP Finals. Now, its international reputation is firmly back on the map and Buonissima leverages this momentum to spotlight the city’s culinary heritage.
The Bob Noto award kick-started this edition; a tribute to the famed photographer and Turin food enthusiast who sadly passed away a few years back. This annual prize adopts a new theme each year, and its winner is tasked with crafting a menu for the subsequent edition. This year, we learnt that the honour went to Massimiliano Alajmo of Le Calandre, but not before savouring a wild menu from Mugaritz’s Andoni Luis at Dal Cambio – which, among other dishes, included sacramental bread made with lard. The Spanish chef clinched the award in 2021 when irreverence was the chosen theme.
The crowning moment of Buonissima 2023 was the collaboration dinner between Alain Ducasse and Davide Oldani, the latter of whom commands the kitchen at the two-Michelin-starred D’O near Milan. As the chefs alternated dishes, local musician and national treasure Samuel of Subsonica treated guests with a Vivaldi-inspired electronic set. The combination of of music, cuisine and the breathtaking backdrop of the UNESCO-listed Venaria Palace made for an unforgettable evening.
However, Buonissima’s appeal isn’t limited to showcasing celebrated chefs. Two standout moments were exceptionally accessible, both in spirit and price. There was Agnolotti vs Rest of the World, a delightful pasta parcel contest that took place at Eataly, where each chef had their own station. And a personal favourite, the Piedmontese Sunday lunch at Rivoli Castle. It was a revelation, allowing attendees to indulge in the finest traditional local food, including the exquisite tajarin (narrow fresh tagliatelle) topped with white truffle.
The five-day event also featured a gala dinner at the Mole, with chefs Chicco Cerea, Chiara Pavan and Francesco Brutto cooking; Piolissima, which spotlighted local piole offering fixed-price menus; and the Metti Torina a Cena series, where each participating restaurant welcomed a fine-dining chef from another corner of Italy.
Buonissima is undeniably a blueprint for success – not one to merely mimic, but an inspiration for cities to showcase their unique culture and traditions, shining brightly both at home and internationally over a long weekend.
Filippo L’Astorina, the Editor
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