Yaatra in Westminster: “Traditional dishes that have stood the test of time”
Located in an area of London offering both historical and architectural charm, Yaatra is tucked away just a few moments from the lively streets of the British government district. Its home is the Old Westminster Fire Station – a stunning Grade II-listed Edwardian building. The front of the venue is adorned in flowers and foliage, and upon entering, guests are greeted with dark wood flooring and deep, vibrant hues that come to life with natural light pouring through the generous windows.
In terms of the menu, executive chef Amit Bagyal (previously of Michelin-starred Benares and Kanishka) is in charge, and aims to serve up traditional dishes from some of the most famous cities and towns in India.
We started with a couple of cocktails: the Paloma, made with tequila, strawberry and black pepper shrub, lime, salt and soda, and the Save the Abbey, incorporating The Fire Station Whisky, black cardamom and orange bitters. Both drinks delivered a liberal amount of booze while playing on subtle, aromatic flavours.
Next, we had a poppadom basket to whet the appetite. This included an assortment of roasted and fried poppadoms served with tomato and lemongrass chutney and a mint yoghurt chutney.
Our starters were calamari served with a chilli passionfruit coulis and squid ink mayo, which added a visually intriguing element to the plate. The squid was cooked well and was offset by the tangy, sweet coulis. We accompanied with the Chicken Stir-Fried Momos with Garlic Pak Choi and Toasted Sesame. The dumplings were sticky and sweet, and really packed a punch in terms of spice.
Indulging in the mains, we savoured a tandoori kebab platter with chicken, prawn and lamb seekh. The meat was well marinated and infused with a smoky flavour and just the right amount of heat. We also enjoyed the Sindhi Lamb Shank Biryani, which was served with a cucumber and mint raita. This was the dish for me, tender and juicy lamb falling off the bone with hearty and robust flavours running through every mouthful.
We ordered the Fiery Cumin Okra with Onion and Tomato as a side – not for the fainthearted – and the Black Dal and Kidney Beans, which took on a pleasant creamy consistency. Everything was accompanied by a fluffy garlic naan, perfect for mopping up any excess jus.
Finally, the Mixed Berry Flambé with Cardamom Ice Cream and Spiced Rum was our dessert. In true theatrical fashion, the dome was set alight before giving way to an airy, fruity mousse. We also had the Khoya Carrot Halwa. This traditional Indian dessert certainly looked the part and was nutty and sweet with a delicate, flaky texture.
When it comes to winning flavour combinations and crowd-pleasing dishes, this place has got it down. Yaatra isn’t one for coming up with new concepts and recipes, but what it does do is gracefully execute traditional Indian dishes that have stood the test of time.
Alex Julie Woods
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti (except header)
To book a table at Yaatra, Old Westminster Fire Station, 4 Greycoat Place, London SW1P 1SB, call 020 4549 1906 or visit their website here.
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