Unveiling London’s omakase love affair: Five unique Japanese fine-dining experiences

14^th June 2023

Rosamund Kelby

Rosamund Kelby

14 June 2023

Whilst London has long harboured a thriving Asian food scene, it is only recently that this taste for the east has evolved to cater to a growing appetite for a more unique and exclusive dining experience. Given the capital’s move away from impersonal dining rooms towards intimate chef’s tables, it’s not surprising that high-end restaurateurs have sought inspiration from Japan’s unique counter dining culture. Cue the era of the elite omakase. The term, which literally translates to “I’ll leave it up to you”, speaks of an age-old unspoken trust between diner and chef – a faith that the master behind the bar will choose the very best of seasonal ingredients and prepare them with incredible skill. If you are willing to take this leap into the unknown, the reward is a series of remarkable courses that will never be recreated in the same way. 

Araki was the first to nail the omakase concept, creating a space for a series of new ventures that are pushing London to rewrite its relationship with the menu. We have put together a list of the most notable new spots that are taking the decisions out of diners’ hands in the best possible way.

Roji

Like many of the most memorable restaurants in Japan, Mayfair’s Roji is run by a husband and wife team, Tamas Naszai and Tomoko Hasegawa, whose partnership makes for a perpetually exciting menu. The couple source only from a modest selection of small-scale farmers, giving them just enough premium fish, meat, fruit and vegetables to host ten guests at a time. The local produce is reinvented with distinctly Japanese techniques, with examples including Yorkshire beef prepared Tataki-style, and Scottish langoustine accompanied by mochi-gome (glutinous rice).

To book a table at Roji, 56 South Molton Street London W1K 5SH, call +44 20 3632 9445 or visit their website here.

Taku

Japanese chef Takuya Watanabe first procured a Michelin star as chef patron of Jin Paris before making his mark on the London culinary scene with Taku. His new 16-seater restaurant, which has already earned a star this year, offers daily changing dishes and a series of omakase menus crafted with local produce and fish carefully sourced by head chef Long Ng. One of the highlights is a lavish, over 20-course menu, promising a journey of culinary discovery.

To book a table at Taku, 36 Albemarle Street London W1S 4JE, visit their website here.

Sushi Kanesaka at 45 Park Lane 

This summer, one of London’s most exclusive venues, 45 Park Lane, will launch its own answer to the omakase experience: Sushi Kanesaka. This opening will mark Shinji Kanaseka’s first foray outside of Asia, and given that the acclaimed chef holds two Michelin stars at the original Sushi Kanesaka in Tokyo’s exclusive Ginza district, we expect great things. While we know that sushi will be served up in the traditional Edomae style, championing the inherent subtle flavours of the fish, the rest is a mystery to be unravelled by each diner individually.

Sushi Kanesaka, 45 Park Lane London W1K 1PN, opens on 1^st July 2023. To book a table call +44 (0)20 7493 4545 or visit their website here.

Owo by Endo Kazutoshi

Endo Kazutoshi, the Yokohama-born third-generation sushi master who has long dominated the UK’s Asian food scene, has also announced plans to open a new 28-seat rooftop restaurant at The OWO, offering both panoramic views and a chef’s table experience. If Endo at the Rotunda in White City, Sumi in Notting Hill or Humo in Mayfair are anything to go by, diners should be fairly happy leaving it up to him.

Owo by Endo Kazutoshi opens later in the summer. For further information visit the OWO website here.

Humble Chicken

While this 18-seater restaurant from chef Angelo Sato specialises in yakitori rather than sushi, it belongs in this list because it offers the same at-the-counter, once-in-a-lifetime curation that characterises the omakase experience. This is not just grilled meat; it is a story told with every part of the animal. Sato understands his ingredients, and by playing with textures and temperatures he is able to put on a show to rival anything staged at the National Theatre. 

To book a table at Humble Chicken, 54 Frith Street London W1D 4SL, call +44 20 7434 2782 or visit their website here.

Rosamund Kelby