Rosi at the Beaumont in Mayfair

Rosy accents are everywhere you look upon entering the new restaurant at the Beaumont Mayfair – in the fabrics, the artwork, the flowers – which is fitting, given its name. Rosi officially opened its doors at the beginning of October, led by the hotel’s new culinary director, chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen. The property sits down a hidden alley in one of London’s most central areas, keeping noise levels low and ensuring a private, unhurried atmosphere – a gem for those truly in search of discretion. And Rosi is the latest diamond in its crown.

Since CEO Stuart Procter joined the Mayfair establishment, gradual changes have steered it in a more contemporary direction, and the arrival of Goodwin-Allen is one of them. The restaurant replaces The Colony Grill, with a refreshed style and a menu that celebrates English traditional fare prepared with superb ingredients. The interiors evoke a Parisian brasserie: light, colourful, artistic and refined. Drawings mounted on the walls and adorning the menus make for a chic space that feels alive both by day (despite the lack of natural light) and in the evening. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The menu takes into consideration the evolving habits of guests, offering enjoyable, expertly executed classics. Indeed, the à la carte features a wide variety of dishes, all generously portioned, perfect for sharing, ordering individually or indulging in a full feast. There are sections for snacks (including Chipolata Sausages and Hash Browns), appetisers, caviar and oysters, salads, mains from the land and sea, and family favourites that lean on Mediterranean go-tos like Neapolitan Pizza and Pasta Puttanesca.

Flipping through the wine list, it’s evident that the Old World – mainly France and Italy – dominates, with several pages devoted to each. However, the options from the New World, along with some intriguing English vintages, are equally appealing. The bottle chosen to accompany our dinner is a Dedicado Tupungato Vineyard Chardonnay 2019: slightly creamy on the palate, with notes of honey and tropical fruits. Its acidity is restrained, lending a gentle mellowness to the wine’s elegant viscosity.

“Time-honoured dishes, properly done” are apt words here. The choice of mains includes tempting cuts from the coals, among them a Dry-Aged Lake District Sirloin and a Hereford Fillet, and there are traditional European dishes such as Chicken Kyiv, Dover Sole (grilled and Meunière) and Corn-Fed Chicken Diane. We opt for a dish not so commonly found on modern menus: the Steamed Lamb Suet Pudding, a rich, floury dome encasing a succulent lamb filling. We can’t resist also trying the Pan-Roasted Halibut on a bed of grapes, cucumber and tarragon sauce, delicate and juicy at the same time.

The agile service is enhanced by a touch of dining room theatricality. The Old Fashioned Pork Pie – its soft crust framing meltingly tender meat – is sliced on a trolley by the table, then served with an array of pickles, mustard and chutney. The meal ends in similarly dramatic fashion with the Flamed Seasonal Sponge, finished tableside and so hot the cream spooned over it melts on contact. The result brings well balanced sweetness. A playful finale comes with the build-your-own Rosi Sundae, which can lean towards either fruit or chocolate (as ours did), entirely at the guest’s pleasure.

Rosi’s relaxed, modern concept, capturing effortless charm, is an ideal fit for business lunches, casual catch-ups and classy dates.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: John Carey

To book a table at Rosi at the Beaumont, Brown Hart Gardens, London W1K 6TF, call 020 7499 1001 or visit their website here.