Koya Ko’s guest chef series: London’s culinary talent express themselves through the medium of udon

Heading over to London Fields on a week in which the entire transport system has collapsed under national strike action might seem like a questionable endeavour, but when the words “udon” and “Florence Knight” hit my inbox, it’s not just an invitation, but a call to action. My quest is hardly the stuff of Tolkien: it starts with a bus that trundles along for 90 minutes to cover grand total of three miles and ends on an understated sidestreet terrace. Nonetheless, after spending an hour at Koya Ko Hackney – the Broadway Market branch of one of London’s humblest noodle bars – it’s a journey I would happily repeat. 

For over a decade, Koya have been quietly crafting themselves a reputation across the capital as modest masters of udon. One can perhaps understand why they don’t loudly publicise the traditional methods used to make their noodles: most notably, these include kneading the dough with their feet. But this unflinching loyalty to classic Japanese techniques is precisely what makes Koya so special. Clearly, London’s chefs know this too, as tonight we are here to preview a series of guest dishes from some of the city’s biggest names. Each, in their own way, pay due reverence to the timeless virtue of the noodle, proving just how versatile a culinary canvas it can be.

Knight, of Sessions Art’s Club, is the first on the fortnightly roster, which launched on 24^th June. Her clam and wild garlic udon with roasted tomatoes, much like the restaurant, announces itself without fanfare, and then in trademark style rearranges a handful of simple ingredients into a mouthful of art. It’s like sipping on the summer – and considering it’s not easy to get a table at her restaurant, it’s a great way to assuage any doubts as to whether this chef really lives up to the hype.

Second on the lineup, Max Rocha of local Hackney hotspot Café Cecilia keeps it even more low-key with his Breakfast Udon. This packs the best parts of a full English, with a perfectly cooked tea-stained egg bobbing atop a broth infused with the flavours of bacon (without that fatty feel). If your egg upends itself as mine did, prepare for the happiest of accidents as the salty broth combines with the rich yolk. The only fitting way to show your appreciation – in the Japanese custom –  is with an almightily slurp.

Mitshel Ibrahim’s offering is perhaps the most visually striking of the night, offsetting vibrant green leaves against an inky broth. The chef, of Italian favourites Ombra and Forno, pairs long, silken noodles with soft curls of cuttlefish and sweat pea, creating a dish that tastes like holidays on the Mediterranean coast laced with lazy afternoons in the garden. 

Last but not least, Ben Chapman, of Smoking Goat and Kiln, serves up my favourite offering of the evening. His bowl partners Geng Gari – a type of Thai yellow chicken curry – with tart pickles and blood orange (in our case, a slice of grapefruit, but I’m not complaining). Just when you don’t think it can get any better, the addition of dashi broth creates one of the most inspired cross-cultural fusions I’ve tried in a long time – as I bring the bowl to my face and inhale, I’m almost worried I’ll get high off the fumes.

Even more guests from popular London spots will be collaborating over the coming months: for two weeks a-piece, Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich of Honey & Co, Towpath Café’s Laura Jackson and Owen Barratt of Monty’s Deli will be bringing their own reinventions to the table. If you crave the comfort of a warm bowl of udon but you’re not afraid of a culinary curve ball, we suggest you ditch your usual central haunts and venture out east to Koya Ko to pay your respects to the humble noodle.

Rosamund Kelby
Photos: Ola Smit

For further information about Koya Ko and the guest chef series visit the website here.